I-95 Ramble:
Truck Stops, Gas Stations, and A Few Fun Things, Too!

Ah, I-95, that endless, rolling ribbon of concrete snaking along the Atlantic Coastline. The long drive from Maine to Florida is anticipated by most people with as much enthusiasm as facing a root canal.

But there are enough attractions just off the Interstate that the drive south can actually become part of the vacation. From well-known sightseeing spots and amusements to unusual museums and nature centers, with some careful planning, you might not care if you ever reach Florida. Either way, you'll have a lot more fun getting there.

The first stop is almost at the top of I-95. The Kittery, Maine, Historical and Naval Museum (Exit 2) reflects the town's past as a shipbuilding center from as far back as the American Revolution. A replica of the sloop Ranger, built in 1777 is on display. Check out the findings of the archeological dig that's unearthed pipe stems, wine bottles, buckles, and other flotsam of the shipbuilders' lives.

More Revolutionary history is at the Minuteman National Historic Park in Concord, MA (Exit 30). View the multimedia presentation and walk or drive the four miles of Battle Road from Concord to Lexington while reciting "One if by land; two if by sea."

About the time the chorus of "Are we there yet?" really starts to grate on parental nerves, the Children's Museum of Rhode Island comes into view (Exit 29). It's a hands-on science, history, and arts museum designed for kids to age 11. It's easy to find - look for the large dragon outside the building. Inside, there are exhibits on waterways, pets and people, city streets (including a crawl-through mock-up of a sewer system), and one designed specifically for infants to four-year-olds.

The nautical attractions of Mystic Seaport are well known. But the town also has the Carousel Museum (Exit 90). This is home to one of the largest collections of antique carousels in the country. There are dozens of hand-carved carousel animals and an ongoing 'watch-while-it's-restored" program. Guided and self-guided tours are available.

Best known for creating "The Greatest Show on Earth," the MTV of its time, P.T. Barnum was a showman and entrepreneur who influenced life in 19th century America. The Barnum Museum in Bridgeport, CT (Exit 27) is devoted to exploring his life and career and the amazing cast of characters who populated his public and private lives.

New York's Bronx Zoo (Exit 4B) has a justly earned reputation as one of the finest zoos in the country. Over 4,000 animals are housed in natural setting on 265 acres. Not the sort of environment you'd expect to find in the heart of a megalopolis.

Down the road, the New Jersey State Aquarium (Exit 3) rounds out the ecological picture with a look at the creatures living under the sea. Six thousand fish on 300 species swim through the aquarium's displays.

One sight nobody wants to see is that of a state trooper in the rearview mirror. You'll have a better appreciation of the job of the "Smokies" after a visit to the New Jersey State Police Museum (Exit 1). The introductory video and display details the rigorous training recruits must complete. You'll view a "crime scene," use interactive programs to check out your fingerprints, and learn about the early years of the troopers - when they chased speeding flivvers on horseback! At the end of the tour, indulge in your fantasy - sit in a real police cruiser and hit the lights.

The Brandywine Valley, near Chester, PA (Exit 8) is filled with Revolutionary history. The Chester County Historical Society Museum gives a lively retelling of the development of the area, not just during the Colonial period, but into the present day. Their collection of period photos is one of the finest you'll ever see.

If you want to check out where Washington and his officers spent their leisure hours during the days of Valley Forge, there are over a dozen inns and restaurants who can prove that "George Washington Ate Here."

You're only in Delaware for a few miles, but if you need to pick up any vacation supplies, remember that the state has no sales tax. The Christiana Mall (Exit 4AB) is a good base for shopping operations. The mall is an anchor for a large retail district with many chain and specialty stores. Load up with books and CDs at the massive Borders Books and Music store near the mall.

Havre de Grace, Maryland (Exit 89) almost became the nation's capital. The vote went to the tract of land along the Potomac by just one vote. That was a blessing for the northern Chesapeake Bay, since this village where the Bay and the Susquehanna River meet has remained a quiet town, almost forgotten by the 20th century. Large Victorian mansions line the tree-shaded main street; the Decoy Museum houses collections of this waterfowler's folk art; cruises on the Bay aboard an authentic skipjack - a single-master schooner & Maryland's state boat - sail every weekend; there's waterfront dining, antique and specialty shops, and even a family-owned shop that makes its own award-winning chocolate.

The secret world of spies and codes are revealed at the National Cryptological Museum, located naturally enough near the headquarters of the National Security Agency (Exit 38). As the name implies, it concentrates on codes and code breaking. You'll see devices dating back to the Civil War and as modern as today's supercomputers. Displays about the KGB, codetalkers of WWII, the U.S.Liberty, and how diplomatic codes were broken in the 1920s tell just some of the super-secret stories.

Halfway between Washington and Richmond, you can visit one of George Washington's domestic projects at Kenmore Plantation (Exit 130AB). He surveyed this land for his sister in 1752. She and her husband, Colonel Fielding Lewis, built their plantation there just before the Revolution. Inside you'll see extensive displays on the decorative arts of the 18th and 19th centuries and what life was like for the domestic servants and slaves. Outside, there are formal gardens and an ongoing archeological dig to learn more about the times and lives of the people.

"Let us cross the river and rest under the shade of the trees." Those were Stonewall Jackson's last works, uttered as he died from his wounds during the Civil War. A fitting remark, since Caroline County, where he died, is laced with many rivers and streams. The Rappahannock, Pamunkey, Mattaponi, South and North Anna, and other waterways make the area a pleasant fishing and camping destination. Civil War buffs stop at Fairfield Plantation, in Guinea, where Jackson spent his final days (Exit 118). It's part of the Fredericksburg and Spottsylvania Battlefield Park System.

No history, just play, is found at King's Dominion Theme Park (Exit 98). This is a roller coaster lover's Mecca, and it is always crowded. The parking lot opens 90 minutes before the park, which should tell you something. The admission covers almost all of the rides, shows, and attractions, although a few of the special rides and some concerts are additional. The campground offers a 10% discount to members of Good Sam, Coachman Caravan, KOA, and Go Camping America members.

Richmond, the capital of the Confederacy, has never forgotten its role during the Civil War (Exit 74C). The Museum of the Confederacy has the world's largest and most comprehensive collection of military, political, and domestic artifacts associated with the years of the Confederacy. It's adjacent to the Confederate White House and in the middle of the historic district.

Nearby is the Wickham-Valentine Museum. Housed in a mansion dating from 1812, this is a museum of the life and history of Richmond, with displays covering the pre-Civil War African-American culture to women's working clothing of the 20th century, Its gallery of costumes and textiles is nationally recognized. Lunch is available at the Grand Cafe on weekdays.

If you've ever been involved in tobacco farming in even the slightest way, you wonder why anyone would choose to make a living raising such a labor-intensive, backbreaking, messy, time-consuming, soil-destroying crop. But for decades, the profits from the 'obnoxious weed,' as the British who craved it called it, made the work worth the effort.

At the National Tobacco Farm Life Museum in Kenly, NC (Exit 107), you'll experience the life of a tobacco farmer during the Great Depression. The smokehouse, barn, milk house, and other farm buildings are restored and open. An interesting display about Southern folk medicine gives insight into original holistic medical practices. There's a special kids' display where youngsters can dress up in bonnets and boots and use kid-sized tools at the workbench.

Cape Lookout National Seashore (Exit 97) is 55 miles of beaches along the Outer Banks of North Carolina. Much of it is on three undeveloped barrier islands. These are reachable only by boat or ferry. There are self-guided trails around Portsmouth Village, but most of the land is undeveloped. You can shell, fish, watch for birds, and tour the Cape Lookout Lighthouse. Facilities are few, and you will need to bring your own water.

Did you know that Ava Gardner was a North Carolina girl? Tom Banks did. She kissed him on the cheek when he was 12 years old, and he never got over it. Banks and his wife devoted their lives to the Ava Gardner Museum, collecting photos, mementos, films, and anything else they could find about the actress. Eventually, they purchased the house in Smithfield, NC where she spent much of her childhood and opened the Ava Gardner Museum (Exit 95). Learn all about her romance with Frank Sinatra, hear reminiscences by Gregory Peck and others, and check out the monthly national TV schedule of her movies.

Santee National Wildlife Refuge (Exit 102) is a critter-spotter's paradise. Bald eagles, peregrine falcons, woodpeckers, and migratory songbirds all put on aerial displays to the delight of birdwatchers. Deer, bobcat, and alligators roam the freshwater marshes, bottomland and upland forests along the shores of Lake Marion.

Local Indian tribes appreciated the area. The Santee Indian Mound, near the Visitor's Center, unearths some of their history and customers.
Hilton Head Island (Exit 8) means golf. Well, mostly golf. When you get tired of chasing that obstinate little ball, you can stroll along 12 miles of beaches, rent a bike or sailboat, enjoy charter or surf fishing, take a dolphin-watching or dinner cruise, try out one of the 200 tennis courts, take a horseback ride along the beach, visit historic sites, or join a guided beach walk or wildlife refuge exploration.

Savannah, Georgia (Exit 18) is home to the Mighty 8th Air Force Heritage Museum. Static and visual displays of aircraft and equipment, and a "Mission Experience" multimedia exhibit tell the proud story of the "Mighty 8th" from its beginnings in WWII to its role in Desert Storm.

Most people think that the Revolutionary War was centered on Valley Forge and Yorktown, but the southern colonies saw a lot of military action, too. Fort Morris (Exit 13) in Georgia protected the area during both the Revolution and the War of 1812. There are frequent militia drills and other demonstrations during the summer. Also nearby are Fort Stewart, with its collection of military history from the Revolution to the present day, Seabrook Village, which recreated rural African-American life from 1865 to the 1930s, and Fort Stewart itself. Home of the 3rd Infantry- the lead assault troops for Desert Storm - it is headquarters for 20,000 troops.

Brunswick and the Golden Isles (Exit 6) promise any sort of break you want, from crabbing and sunbathing to parasailing. Brunswick has an old English fort, antebellum plantation ruins, shops, great seafood restaurants, and 207 holes of golf. The four islands offer an equal range of activities. Little St. Simons is reachable only by boat. Sea Island is dominated by "The Cloister," an award-winning resort. St. Simons Island is the largest, with a village, 200-year-old lighthouse, pier, sailing, swimming, and several more golf courses. Jekyll Island is the southernmost of the chain, with a water fun park and small village.

Bulow Plantation (Exit 90), south of St. Augustine, was once a thriving sugar plantation. Charles Bulow established it in 1821. By the 1830s, it was the most prosperous plantation in eastern Florida. It came to a sudden end in December, 1835, when the Seminole Indians, angry at their treatment by the government and white settlers, attacked the plantations in the area. The refugees gathered at Bulow, which was abandoned and destroyed a month later. Only the ruins of the manor house, sugar mills, and wells remain.

NASCAR addicts are drawn to Daytona Motor Speedway (Exit 87AB) like kids are drawn to carnivals. Even when there's no race under way, there's still a lot of action. At "The World Center of Racing," there are videos of early races along Daytona Beach, a gallery of racing legends, historic photos and other memorabilia. "Race Day: Dawn to Determination," is a Surround Sound audio display which uses a ten-speaker system to simulate a day at the Daytona 500. The audio is so realistic that the grandstand seats shake.

Chocoholics don't want to miss Angel & Phelps Chocolate Factory. The 30-minute tour teaches you all you ever needed to know to fully appreciate what goes into creating chocolate and other candies. The factory produces over 100 chocolate confections at their plant. And, yes, there is an outlet store.

The Brevard Zoo (Exit 73) is the product of the work of a lot of community volunteers and local businesses. Separate displays highlight Florida's natural inhabitants, not sun-tan-oiled beachcombers, but the Blue Heron, river otters, bald eagles, and the red wolf. Australia - with a display of Aboriginal art and Australian animals - has "Paws Only," an animal study zone where you can learn about the animals up close and touchable.

"We Make Science Fun" boasts the Miami Science Museum (Exit 50). It sounds that way, when you hear that the Mummy, Dracula, and Frankenstein's monster team up to teach energy concepts the "The Atoms Family," and Cyber City teaches those of us who are not computer literate how to surf the Web. Check the schedule of the Weintraub Observatory for chances to view the night sky through their telescope.

You're now almost at the end of the road. Literally. You can't go any farther than the wonderfully named Topookeegee Yungee State Park (Exit 24). Park there, and spend the rest of your vacation relaxing and planning which places to visit on your way back north.
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