Two words kept echoing through my mind as we planned our flight to Cody, WY - "density altitude." Could the 160-hp Cheetah purr contentedly where the summertime density altitude sometimes tops 8,500 feet?

The answer is, yes; you can fly safely and comfortably into Yellowstone Regional Airport (COD) with a minimum of trouble. It takes some planning and pre-flight thinking, but it's well worth the effort because Cody is a great destination. Wide open spaces, friendly people, cowboys, and scenic vistas - everything you expect in the "Wild West."

Cody was founded by Buffalo Bill himself, who wanted to establish an economic center for the region. Indian Scout, trapper, and star of his Wild West Show, Cody recognized the potential of the Rockies. Backing up his faith with his checkbook, he invested heavily in ranching, mining, irrigation and 'urban development. Perfectly situated on a plain east of Yellowstone National Park, it actively courts, welcomes and entertains visitors.

If it's your first trip to the West, the Buffalo Bill Historical Center is the logical place to start. Rightly regarded as the country's finest western museum, it's so large that your admission ticket is good for two days.

Where to start? That depends on your interests. The Plains Indian Museum uses interpretive displays to explore the cultural histories and artistry of the Plains Indians from their buffalo hunting past to present day. As a fan of the bronzes of Frederic Remington, I spent a long time in the Whitney Gallery of Western Art, getting nose-to-statue close to the famous sculptures. All of the other familiar paintings, sketches, landscapes and other artworks from the major and minor western artists are here. There's also an extensive collection of contemporary works, which interpret modern artists' view of the west.

The Cody Firearms Museum reminded me of a WalMart for Wild West gunslingers. It's the largest collection of American guns from pre-Colonial to modern times, but most of the 4,000 guns seem to have come straight from the holster of Billy the Kid.

The Buffalo Bill Exhibit does more than just cover Cody's life in exhaustive detail. It puts it into the context of the culture and the myth of the western frontier.

Just up the road, Trail Town is another museum that's worth the visit. It's a collection of 20 historically significant buildings transplanted to Cody. Butch Cassidy's Hole-in-the-Wall cabin is here, as is The Rivers Saloon, the oldest remaining saloon in northwest Wyoming. Look for the bullet holes still in the door. Several legends of the old west - Jeremiah Johnson, for one - were reburied in the small cemetery at the museum. It's a surprisingly poignant spot.

The museums are at the west end of town. From the Buffalo Bill Museum, it's an easy stroll through town along the main street, Sheridan Avenue. I was a little disappointed that the place didn't look more like the set of Bonanza, with wooden sidewalks and western-style storefronts.

The Irma Hotel takes care of those of us looking for the Hollywood version of history. The hotel's pedigree is impeccable. Buffalo Bill built it and named it after his daughter. Every night except Sunday, there's a full-fledged shootout in the street outside the hotel. Afterwards, the players retire to the hotel's restaurant and mingle with the guests as they dine. This is the place for western fare, including buffalo steaks, although I wonder what Buffalo Bill would have made of the salad bar.

The West means cowboys, and cowboys mean rodeos, and Cody has one of the most famous. The Cody Night Rodeo is the AA league for the pro rodeo circuit. A lot of the big money winners honed their skills in bull-riding, calf roping, bronco bucking, and barrel racing at the nightly events here. I'd rather fly solo partial panel IFR in a hurricane than try to hang onto one of those hyperactive Brahma bulls for the 8 seconds needed to qualify for a cash prize, but the excitement is irresistible.

I prefer my horseback adventures to be more docile. A trail ride along a mountain trail on a sure-footed, patient steed is my speed. Depending on how sore you want your seatbones to be, you can take hour-long, half-day, and even overnight trips. Our guides turned out to be two of the rodeo riders leading trails rides as day jobs. We rode to the top of Spirit Mountain, which overlooks Cody in one direction and the mountain range in the other. Wow!
All of that outdoor activity builds a large appetite. If you are looking for trendy Bistro food and vegetarian entrees, Cody is not going to make your 'must visit' list. This is the place for meals for manly men and their kindred spirits. The Irma Grill has buffalo prime rib, while Pete's Café Bakery across the street has massive buffalo burgers, huge sandwiches and muffins large enough for a ranch hand's breakfast. La Comida restaurant has been written up in Bon Appetit and Gourmet. Cassie's Supper Club was once the headquarters for local "professional" ladies. Its live entertainment is more respectable now, western music and dancing.

You're near the east gate of Yellowstone Park and should plan to spend a full day up there. Don't be in any rush. Plan to spend time at just one or two of the geyser basins instead of trying to see them all. Old Faithful is nearly a requirement, of course, but the dozens of others spouting off like geologic teenagers are just as impressive. Be on the lookout for "bear jams" and "moose jams." Those are the traffic tie-ups caused by sightings of the animals. Take the warnings to stay away from the animals seriously. Buffalo, moose, bear, and elk are all big critters that aren't necessarily happy to have you horning in on their turf.

To finish up your Cody adventure, plan a sightseeing flight over Yellowstone. It's even more spectacular from overhead. The locals will suggest routes and advice about mountain flying. Heed them and have fun.
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